hvac troubleshooting
Outdoor unit won't start
Common symptoms: condenser not running; outdoor unit dead; heat pump won't start; outside unit not turning on
Stop and call a pro if:
- burning odor
- sparks
- smoke
- water near electrical
Step-by-step diagnostic flow
Step 1
Any burning smell, smoke, sparks, or water pooling around the outdoor unit?
Step 2
Is the thermostat actively calling for cooling or heating (mode set correctly, setpoint past room temp by 5+ °F, waited 5+ minutes)?
Most thermostats have a 5-minute short-cycle protection delay. The outdoor unit won't restart instantly after a power loss or mode change.
Step 3
Check the dedicated outdoor-unit breaker in the electrical panel. Is it tripped, or in the middle (between on and off)?
Step 4
Look at the disconnect box on the wall next to the outdoor unit. Is the pull-out fuse fully seated and right-side up? (Some are installed upside-down, which disables the unit.)
Step 5
With the thermostat clearly calling, listen at the outdoor unit. What do you hear?
Possible outcomes
Cut power at the outdoor disconnect and call a pro
high confidenceActive hazard.
- Pull the disconnect at the outdoor unit
- Photograph any damage
- Don't touch wet electrical components
Thermostat isn't actually calling — adjust and wait
high confidenceMost outdoor units have a 5-minute short-cycle protection delay. The unit won't start instantly after a setpoint change.
- Set mode to Cool/Heat clearly past room temp (5+ °F)
- Wait at least 5 minutes for the delay
- Check thermostat has fresh batteries or C-wire power
- If still no start after 10 minutes, return to the breaker step
Breaker tripped — reset once, do not repeat
medium confidenceA single trip from a transient (lightning, power blip) often resets cleanly. Repeated trips indicate a hard fault — short circuit, locked compressor, or failing capacitor — that gets worse the more you try.
- Flip the breaker fully OFF, then back ON (most breakers don't reset from the 'tripped middle' position)
- Wait 5 minutes for short-cycle protection, then check if the unit runs
- If it trips again immediately, leave the breaker off and call a pro
- Never bypass a tripped breaker or upsize it
- Breaker amperage on the panel label
- Whether it trips immediately or after running
- Equipment make/model
Re-seat the disconnect correctly
high confidenceThe pull-out at the outdoor unit can be installed backwards (which disables the unit) or come loose during yard work.
- Power off the breaker first, just in case
- Re-seat the pull-out right-side up (the manufacturer arrow or 'ON' label faces up)
- Restore the breaker and wait 5 minutes
- If unsure of orientation, look up the disconnect model online or call a pro
Total silence — no low-voltage signal reaching the unit
medium confidenceSilence with the thermostat calling and power present usually means the 24 V control signal isn't reaching the contactor. Possible thermostat issue, broken thermostat wire, or blown low-voltage fuse on the air-handler control board.
- Check the small fuse (typically 3 A or 5 A automotive blade fuse) on the indoor furnace/air-handler control board — blown fuse is a common cause
- Verify thermostat is powered and not in a strange mode
- Don't try to bypass the contactor by jumping out wires
- Call a pro if the fuse keeps blowing — there's a short somewhere
- Whether indoor board fuse is blown
- Thermostat make/model
- Any error LED on the control board
Humming without spinning — capacitor most likely
medium confidenceRun capacitors fail in exactly this pattern. The motor draws current but can't get past its starting torque. Continuing to run a humming compressor causes permanent damage in minutes.
- Turn the unit off at the disconnect immediately
- Do not open the outdoor unit — capacitors store lethal energy even after disconnect
- Call a pro and describe 'humming but not spinning' — capacitor replacement is a quick, inexpensive fix
- Don't run the system in this state
- Unit make/model and age
- Sound description
Single click then nothing — likely contactor
medium confidenceThe contactor (the relay that switches line voltage to the compressor) is pulling in but not making contact, or has burned/welded contacts.
- Call a pro — contactor replacement is a quick part swap but involves line-voltage work
- Don't manually press the contactor closed (some DIY guides suggest this — it puts your finger inches from 240 V)
- If the contactor is visibly burned or ants/insects have infested it, mention that
- Unit make/model and age
- Sound description
Fan only — possible failed compressor or its start components
low confidenceFan running with no compressor hum often means the compressor's start capacitor or contactor failed, or in the worst case the compressor itself is grounded out.
- Turn the unit off at the disconnect
- Call a pro — compressor diagnosis requires meter measurements and refrigerant-side access
- If the unit is over 12–15 years old, ask the pro to quote replacement vs repair
- Unit age
- Make/model
- Whether outdoor unit has run normally recently
Compressor only — fan motor or its capacitor
medium confidenceCompressor running with no fan means the outdoor fan motor or its capacitor failed. The compressor will overheat and lock out within minutes without airflow over the condenser.
- Turn the unit off at the disconnect — running the compressor without the fan damages it
- Do not spin the fan blade by hand to 'help it start'
- Call a pro — fan-motor or fan-cap replacement is quick
- Unit make/model
- Whether fan blade spins freely (with power off)
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